The 8th wonder of the world. A soft sandstone crag which gives a small amount of bouldering, trad and sport climbing. Please don't climb on the rock if it is wet.
Warwickshire Sport (F4) - The line of ancient bolts, trust the bolts at your peril. One bolt came out in 2020. We have no idea what this route is called.
The Gooch (HS 4a) - Starting at the crack right obvious arête. Climb the lower crack, leading to a looser than ideal slab section. Move up the bold slab to join the second obvious crack, topping out with help from the small tree.
Don Corleone (f6A) - The wall left of the obvious arête. Start sitting with left hand in the crack and right hand in a chipped hold and climb the the pockets until the jug ledge. No use of the footblock or arête at this grade.
The Arête SDS (f5) - Sit start the arête using holds on both sides. Finish on the jug ledge.
Corleyflower (f3+) - The wall right of the arête. Finish at the height of the ledge. Pretty rubbish.
Warwickshire Sport (F4) - The line of ancient bolts, trust the bolts at your peril. One bolt came out in 2020. We have no idea what this route is called.
The Gooch (HS 4a) - Starting at the crack right obvious arête. Climb the lower crack, leading to a looser than ideal slab section. Move up the bold slab to join the second obvious crack, topping out with help from the small tree.
Don Corleone (f6A) - The wall left of the obvious arête. Start sitting with left hand in the crack and right hand in a chipped hold and climb the the pockets until the jug ledge. No use of the footblock or arête at this grade.
The Arête SDS (f5) - Sit start the arête using holds on both sides. Finish on the jug ledge.
Corleyflower (f3+) - The wall right of the arête. Finish at the height of the ledge. Pretty rubbish.
Niamh Gibson and Tom Lord on the only sport route in Warwickshire
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This royal throne of kings, this sceptred isle,
This earth of majesty, this seat of Mars,
This other Eden, demi-paradise,
This fortress built by Nature for herself
Against infection and the hand of war,
This happy breed of men, this little world,
This precious stone set in the silver sea,
Which serves it in the office of a wall
Or as a moat defensive to a house,
Against the envy of less happier lands,
This blessed plot, this earth, this realm, this England.
- The Life and Death of King Richard the Second, William Shakespeare (1595)